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1999-2004 Saleen Mustang For the SN-95 New Edge platform. Be sure to specify year, model and equipment if asking for help. |
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#1
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PLEASE HELP: S281 died on me today!!! - Fuel Pump?
So it’s a lovely 65 degree afternoon here in Myrtle Beach SC on New Years Eve so I decided to take my car for a drive today since I haven’t used it in about 5-6 weeks and it dies on me. Any help into what going on would be greatly appreciated, heres what’s going on. Here’s basics its 2002 s281 NA with a 5 speed. Except for some bolt ons its basically stock.
I started the car up for like I said the first time in 5-6 weeks. It started right up just like always there is no excessive cranking or hesitation. When it first starts up it sound to be running rougher then normal but I assumed it was because its been sitting and this quickly smoothed right out after about a minute. I then let it warm up in the garage for 2-3 min and then I back it into my driveway and let it idle for another 2-3 min. I then jump in and get settled and back it into the street no problem and then I put it in first let out the clutch and it bucks and jumps a few times and then shuts right down. I hit the key and it just cracks and cracks it doesn’t sputter or misfire it just cold cracks. So I give it a few min and try to start it again with the same result just cracks and cracks. At this point I stop messing with it because I know there’s a larger issue and I have my neighbor help me push it back into the garage. This is where it sits; it was running and then just died. I gave it a quick look over and I don’t know what’s wrong. I know when a car doesn’t start its 1 of 3 items either fuel, air or spark. It’s getting air so I’m going to rule that one out so I’m thinking there is an electrical issue and the spark plugs stop firing or the engine stopped getting fuel? Any insight or trouble shooting will be greatly appreciated. I did notice there is a shrater valve on top of the fuel rail above one of the injectors so I depressed it to see if fuel squirted out and there was none. I then turned on the key (to engage the fuel pump) and again no fuel squirted out of the valve, my question is should there be? If so my first guess would be fuel pump. PLEASE HELP!! |
#2
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When to turn the key to the on position do you hear the fuel pump? It should have a sec or two of a quiet whine while it pressurizes the system. If you hear it engage maybe it is a clogged fuel filter?
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Mike Wigton #06-409 MMR 1000S 302 Stroker, BBR Stage 2 cams 3.0 pulley 39# injectors, upgraded CAI, 20" Chrome w/275/35ZR's, 14 in Front Brakes, GT500 Heat Exchanger and Walbro Super Car dual fuel pumps, Rear bumper inlays, Shaftmaster 3.5 Alum Driveshaft, AEM Wideband A/F guage, Pypes Long tube headers X-pipe w/o Cats, Extreme chin spoiler, Steeda Tri-Ax short throw shifter, Hood Struts WMS stealth hood pins, Adj upper and lower rear control arms. tuned by Lito. |
#3
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Also check your fuel pump fuse. Im not for sure if you have a CAI K&N filter or stock box, if stock box open it up and check below filter. I have read of people finding a rats nest built there. LOL.
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2005 S/C #10 Press Car w/ Scenic Roof 3.20 S/C Pulley & 18% overdrive Crank Mosaleen S/C no slip idler system 3:73 gears, Watts link Gen II 14" front brakes, slotted rear rotors Brenspeed 302, 47lb inj, longtubes/ catted H-pipe 570 rwhp 545 rwtq (SAE) 13.5 lbs boost, Afco heat exchanger F-5 Joplin Mo. Tornado surviour 5-22-11. |
#4
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The fuel pump fuse is fine but when i turn the key i'm not hearing the fuel pump priming so that what i'm thinking. has anyone changed one before? Is is a hard job?
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#5
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Time consuming, you have to put a jack with piece of 12 x 2 under tank, undo the 2 straps, lower the fuel tank (have the fuel as low as you can), take off the fuel lines, Unplug electric,unbolt 10mm bolts , pull fuel hat up and out. Pull out fuel pump replace fuel pump put back together. I repalaced mine with the Foucus fuel SVT but my Saleen is S/C yours being N/A could get away with a Welboro 255 fuel pump.
Have someone get under cars fuel tank and listen to hear it come on. It only is 1 or 2 seconds just enough to prime line.
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2005 S/C #10 Press Car w/ Scenic Roof 3.20 S/C Pulley & 18% overdrive Crank Mosaleen S/C no slip idler system 3:73 gears, Watts link Gen II 14" front brakes, slotted rear rotors Brenspeed 302, 47lb inj, longtubes/ catted H-pipe 570 rwhp 545 rwtq (SAE) 13.5 lbs boost, Afco heat exchanger F-5 Joplin Mo. Tornado surviour 5-22-11. Last edited by mosaleen; 01-22-2011 at 09:20 AM. |
#6
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You dont think i'll hav any issues upgrading to a 255 lp on a stock NA engine?
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#7
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I kinda had the same problem last year with the girlfriends 99' mustang. Only her's would not start from the get go. Not exactly sure what it was, because all I did was pull apart some of the wire connectors that feed the fuel pump. I had power all the way up to the fuel pump, plugged everything back together, car fired right up, didn't have a problem the rest of the year.
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#8
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I dont beileive so, it will only use what fuel it uses. If you are 100 % sure you will never do any modifications just put the stock fuel pump back in. Im just saying while you are in there keep the reciept for the 255 fuel pump to show at sell of Saleen , and if you do mods and retune at a later date you already have the upgraded fuel pump in.
__________________
2005 S/C #10 Press Car w/ Scenic Roof 3.20 S/C Pulley & 18% overdrive Crank Mosaleen S/C no slip idler system 3:73 gears, Watts link Gen II 14" front brakes, slotted rear rotors Brenspeed 302, 47lb inj, longtubes/ catted H-pipe 570 rwhp 545 rwtq (SAE) 13.5 lbs boost, Afco heat exchanger F-5 Joplin Mo. Tornado surviour 5-22-11. |
#9
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thanks for the info Mosaleen, i think thats exactly what i'll do. I intend to do some additional upgrades in time so i'll upgrade the pump since i have to replace it.
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#10
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Wouldn't make any sense to put the stock unit back in. Great chance to upgrade...
Good luck and let us know if that fixes it!
__________________
Mike Wigton #06-409 MMR 1000S 302 Stroker, BBR Stage 2 cams 3.0 pulley 39# injectors, upgraded CAI, 20" Chrome w/275/35ZR's, 14 in Front Brakes, GT500 Heat Exchanger and Walbro Super Car dual fuel pumps, Rear bumper inlays, Shaftmaster 3.5 Alum Driveshaft, AEM Wideband A/F guage, Pypes Long tube headers X-pipe w/o Cats, Extreme chin spoiler, Steeda Tri-Ax short throw shifter, Hood Struts WMS stealth hood pins, Adj upper and lower rear control arms. tuned by Lito. |
#11
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Inertia switch and CCRM module should be checked before dropping tank.
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#12
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I went to order a replacement pump this morning and found that there are almost no kits that are a direct replacement pump. Most show that the year range that they give does not go up to 2002, why is this? also what should i order? Do I just get a universal pump or can someone let me know of a brand that make a direct replacement upgrade (255lph) for a 2002?
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#13
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You can order the Welbour 255 fuel pump from any aftermarket shop. I ordered my Focus SVT fuel pump from Dallas Mustangs and I know they have the 255 aslo. You get only the fuel pump not the hat , which is what the fuel pump is bolted into and fuel lines hooked up to. You have to pull the old fuel pump out and put in the new one. Not that hard, but if you have problems just take it in and have a mechanic do it.
__________________
2005 S/C #10 Press Car w/ Scenic Roof 3.20 S/C Pulley & 18% overdrive Crank Mosaleen S/C no slip idler system 3:73 gears, Watts link Gen II 14" front brakes, slotted rear rotors Brenspeed 302, 47lb inj, longtubes/ catted H-pipe 570 rwhp 545 rwtq (SAE) 13.5 lbs boost, Afco heat exchanger F-5 Joplin Mo. Tornado surviour 5-22-11. |
#14
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I think you can get stock fuel pump kits from Latemodel Restoration Supply.
The link for their site is: http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/Mustang/ I bought my Ford GT pump from Lethal Performance I think, it was really easy to swap out for the stocker, didnt take much modification. |
#15
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Quote:
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#16
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I got my pump in from late model restoration on monday, i'll probably install it over the weekend. hopefully this is the only thing wrong.
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#17
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*crosses fingers*
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#18
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okay so i came home today and had the urge to put the pump in so i started going through the steps and i hit a wall. i've got the tank on the ground but i'm at a dead end. from what i've read the pump should be under the blue cover on the passanger side is this right? or do i unbolt the center section and find it in there?
i was trying to remove the blue cover but i cant get it off. i'm pretty sure i had to rotate it until it lines up properly and it will come off but i can get it to come off. i can rotate it about 90 degrees but it still wont come off. here are some photos i took to explain what i'm saying, any help will be appriciated |
#19
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Here are the instructions yes you pull the nuts (10mm) on center piece and unhook the lines. Disconnect the fuel pump electrical harness directly behind the fuel tank. Loosen the clamp on the fuel filler hose on the end away from the tank, using a screwdriver. Place the floor jack under the fuel tank for support. Remove the two fuel tank support straps by removing the bolts to the rear of the strap, using the appropriate deep well socket. Lower the tank carefully, making sure to pull the fuel tank filler hose off the metal filler neck attached to the body. Lower the tank just enough to disconnect the fuel lines to the fuel pump. There is the main fuel line, the return line and the vent line. Just squeeze the connectors and they pull apart. Lower the tank the rest of the way. Remove the nuts around the circumference of the fuel pump, using a 10mm socket. Lift the fuel pump cartridge up enough to gain access to the plastic retainer clips, squeeze the clips inward and pull the pump up and out of the tank. Install the new pump in reverse order of removal Read more: How to Change the Fuel Pump on a 2002 Mustang GT | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_6208844_chan...#ixzz1BiiNRqoc
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2005 S/C #10 Press Car w/ Scenic Roof 3.20 S/C Pulley & 18% overdrive Crank Mosaleen S/C no slip idler system 3:73 gears, Watts link Gen II 14" front brakes, slotted rear rotors Brenspeed 302, 47lb inj, longtubes/ catted H-pipe 570 rwhp 545 rwtq (SAE) 13.5 lbs boost, Afco heat exchanger F-5 Joplin Mo. Tornado surviour 5-22-11. |
#20
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Ya i was gonna say wires a such attached normally means fuel pump not just the hoses.
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#21
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and ya its a dumb question but he needs to have his battery unplugged right? we dont need any booms!
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#22
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If it is not the Fuel pump , go to ford and get the diagram of the fuse box under the hood, there is a fuse for the fuel pump that is what id check next. But most of the time its the fuel pump , my 2000 went out and I replaced it with SVT Focus fuel pump.
__________________
2005 S/C #10 Press Car w/ Scenic Roof 3.20 S/C Pulley & 18% overdrive Crank Mosaleen S/C no slip idler system 3:73 gears, Watts link Gen II 14" front brakes, slotted rear rotors Brenspeed 302, 47lb inj, longtubes/ catted H-pipe 570 rwhp 545 rwtq (SAE) 13.5 lbs boost, Afco heat exchanger F-5 Joplin Mo. Tornado surviour 5-22-11. |
#23
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i have that diagram and it was the first thing i checked, the fuse was fine and the pump was still getting power, so that why i assumed it had to be pump.
i think you guys have me headed in the right direction i'll get back out in the garage this afternoon and try to finish it up |
#24
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so i get back in the garage today to try and finish it up. i unbolt the cover remove the fuel sending unit. take it to my work bench and i take it apart and get the old pump. at this point i'm starting to feel good and to see the light at the end of the tunnel and when i go to reassemble it i realize the plug on the top of the pump is different. WTF!!! this whole ordeal has been a nightmare and now they send me the wrong pump.
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#25
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Where did you get the pump from? Some aftermarket pumps come with a pigtail to rewire it for their pump. If you got it from the dealer then you would have received a OEM pump.
What you can do also is run some jumper wires from your pump to your battery to see if the pump is actually dead.
__________________
My Build: http://saleenforums.soec.org/showthread.php?t=6881 Wind Deflector: http://www.saleenforums.soec.org/showthread.php?t=12930 |
#26
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Looks like the right pump. Appears to be a Walbro or similar style. As stated, should have come with a pigtail harness.
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#27
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I called late model restoration which is where I ordered it from and asked if they sent me the wrong pump? The sales rep on the phone explained to me that in addition to the pump I had to also order the installation kit which includes the pigtail I need. So I ordered it yesterday. I'll keep you updated.
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#28
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That stinks. All of the Walbros I have seen have included the pigtails.
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#29
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Times are tough, you have to purchase the pump and then a installation kit so they can get more money. I mean come on the pigtail is at least a .35 cent price increase if it came with the pump, but $10.00 when they charge you for a install kit. Then double shipping cost. LMAO!!!
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My Build: http://saleenforums.soec.org/showthread.php?t=6881 Wind Deflector: http://www.saleenforums.soec.org/showthread.php?t=12930 |
#30
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Thats weak, when you ordered the pump they shouldve asked you if you wanted the pigtail. Every time I have ordered stuff from there they always ask me if I want 20 more things to go with what I just bought, lol.
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#31
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Well I finally have some good news. I spent all day yesterday working on my cars and I got the saleen all finished. Since the new welbro pump is larger then the stock pump I had to spend some time trimming and fitting it into the sending unit. Mostly just trimming a lot of plastic out of the housing. But once I got that done it went smooth. Put it back in the tank and capped it. Then bolted it back in the car. After that I went to check it and it fired right up.
It was music to my ears. So after a month long headache I finally have my car running again. I didn’t take it for a ride because I was elbow deep on another project the rest of the day. But I will prob take it out one day this week, so I just wanted to let you guys knows that it’s fixed. Now time for my next project new exhaust system!!! |
#32
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Glad you had gotten it fixed. Wish I knew for sure it was a Walbro, I think I have an extra pigtail or two I could have just mailed to you and saved you a few bucks.
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#33
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I would have appreciated that. The pig tail was $15 and then it was $15 to ship!!!
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#34
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Holy crap! I usually pay around $80 for my Walbro 255's with harnesses, gaskets, etc. Sorry to hear that. And $15 to ship a tiny little harness that they could stick in an envelope? What is LMA thinking? That's just poor customer service, right there. Sad part is that every Walbro is shipped with the harness, new o-rings, and **** connectors. It is in the instruction kit. They must be taking them out and snarfling them so that they can get another $30.00 out of their customers.
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#35
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TMP - That is what I was talking about. Always trying to squeeze every dime from a customer.
__________________
My Build: http://saleenforums.soec.org/showthread.php?t=6881 Wind Deflector: http://www.saleenforums.soec.org/showthread.php?t=12930 |
#36
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The sad thing is that not only is it unethical, but poor business. Why con a customer out of a $30 for a free part? Why not earn your business and keep a customer coming back to do business with you in the future? Just good business sense. They would have made that back ten fold with a happy customer.
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#37
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Thanks for this thread. Im going to do mine this summer as preventative. This was alot of great info.
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2003 S281-- 03-0094 Running Strong 1996 S281-- 96-347 Triple Black Vert Automatic--TOTALED 2006 GT--Traded 2001 GT--TOTALED 2001 V6--Sold |
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