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2007 Saleen/Parnelli Jones Limited Edition Or as Parnelli likes to call them, for "the Parnelli Jones/Saleen Limited Edition." |
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#1
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Warning: PJ Watts Link bushing failure
That last time I had the PJ out for a drive I heard some "thunking" sound when turning hard left or hard right. It sounded like I had some heavy thing rolling back and forth in the trunk. After searching the trunk and then putting the PJ up on jacks, I discovered the source of the "thunking" sound.
By the way.....My Pj has the TSB fix (black support bar) installed. The PJ Watts Link has two red polyurethane bushings located on both ends of the pivot bar attached to the diff held in place by a bolts threaded into the pivot bar. Well, the bolts are still in place but one of the red polyurethane bushings is missing? The ID of the red poly bushing and the OD of the flange on the bolt differs by maybe 1/32 in the diameter at most. Bottom line.......I need to immediately source at least two red poly bushing for the Watts Link. Any ideas? Or do I have to hope that Saleen has some in stock? JC |
#2
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You can get them from late model restoration. It is a panhard bar bushing.
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#3
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Watta Link failure
Thanks for the reference seelye76. I guess it is latemodelrestoration.com or similar?
I have added some pics. Actually, it is not so much a bushing failure as it is a bushing "disappearing act". See pics. jc |
#4
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Wow. That is strange how they failed. Here's the link.
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...r-Bushings-Red
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#5
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Any updates in your failure?
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#6
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Watts Links Bushings
Late Model Restorations and many others carry the same red polyurethane bushings for the Mustang "track rod/panhard rod" as the Watts Link bushings. I bought the red bushings made by "Prothane". Pretty inexpensive, $21, for four poly bushing, 2 metal bushings and grease.
The disassembly was complicated by not being able to access the bolt head for the left Watts link arm as the bushing had worked out and covered the bolt head. I replaced all four bushings and the numbers on the old red bushings were the same numbers as the new Prothane bushings, 65052. The 1/2 bolt head flange is 1.07" dia. and the ID of the poly bushing is 1.00" dia. That should be enough overlap if the bushing was metal rather than polyurethane. I installed a 1/2" washer under the flange bolt head and so there is no way that the bushings can move out of position in the future. Regardless, I would have to see a photo of the bushing having moved over the bolt head flange before I would have believed it was possible. jc |
#7
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Watts Link Bushing Failure
Here is a pic of the new bushing with new washer installed.
jc |
#8
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Saleen Watts Link failure
Another update or more correctly, a another but different failure to my Watts Link.
This time the pivot bolt in the diff cover snapped and the broken bolt is flush with the diff cover so will require drilling and an Eazy-out or burn it out with a laser. It snapped with a very loud "bang". A little scary as I was going around the curve on he track. Time for a higher grade bolt or a different Watts Link! jc |
#9
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I have #25. Everything is stock.. I dont race it, but Im worried about all these issues. snapping bolts, sloppy links!!!.
I climbed under the car and everything looks OK. Should I have it put on a lift and have things checked and bolts replaced?.. I dont want anything to let go!! thanks |
#10
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Just looking over posts.
Note: My late build PJ has black rubber bushings throughout the watts-link pivot points/ arms. No zerk fittings as well. These poly bushings and fittings may have been previous owner mods. |
#11
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Quote:
My car #358 is the same as yours Dave. Black bushings and no zerk fittings. |
#12
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Sallen Watts link
I would assume that the black bushings are rubber which are more compliant than urethane bushings and do not need zerk fittings for regular special poly grease to minimize noise/squeaks.
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#13
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Dave, have you replaced any bolt/bushings on your PJ? I saw Aussie Tony and he said the diff cover bolts failed on all 3!of his PJs. It may be time to resurrect the premature replacement before we get " the surprise". I need to go search for that post.
Chris |
#14
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Watts Bolt failure
I think it would be wise to check the Watts pivot bolt before something serious happens. A forum search will lead you to the threads on this issue.
1. Make sure the washer stack-up does not allow the pivot bolt to bottom out in the diff cover. I think there was a bulletin on the correct washer placement for the stock 10.9 grade pivot bolt. 2. The steel set screw that secures the pivot bolt also has the potential to damage the 10.9 grade pivot bolt threads. A brass set screw would be a better solution. My 12.9 grade Allen bolt combined with the Heli-Coil thread repair and higher install torque has negated the need for the set screw. 3. The threads ended being so damaged in my aluminum diff cover that I needed to repair the threads with a Heli-Coil. The Heli-Coil is still holding. The Heli-Coil setup will take a lot more torque than the aluminum threaded diff cover. 4. Replace the pivot bolt with a 12.9 grade bolt. A 12.9 grade bolt will be an Allen head bolt and you will probably have to trim the Allen bolt to the correct length so as to not bottom out the in the diff cover. 5. Obviously, a broken pivot bolt will allow the axle to move laterally which is clearly dangerous. I was able to drive the PJ with a broken pivot bolt and unsecured axle about 30 miles an hour to make the 50 mile drive home. |
#15
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Can you recommend a length of bolt and set screw to buy to start?
Thanks |
#16
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Google a company called Bel-Metric... Or McMaster-Carr They both have a great assortment of bolts including the grade 12.9 Allen head bolt.
The differential pivot bolt needs to be a M14 (thread) x 55mm (length) bolt and you might have to trim it a bit depending on the washers you use. I used these washers : ALSO... They make a stainless steel set screw with a brass tip.... So it won't seize or rust and the tip won't ruin the threads on the bolt. The 80mm long bolts are for the chassis mounts and the 60mm bolts are for the pivot ends.... Of course you need the associate lock nuts for the chassis mount sides. |
#17
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Quote:
I have a black urethane rear swaybar kit ready... and will purchase GT500 rear control arms for an OE appearance. Have not decided what to do with the watts-link. |
#18
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Rear sway bar bushings
I do not know of a source for the black rubber rear sway bar bushings. However, if you already have the black urethane rear sway bar bushings than your are good to go.
I bought a set of red urethane bushings for the rear sway bar but could only find a set for a 20mm diameter sway bar and the PJ rear bar is 24mm. I simply bored out the sway bar bushings to 24mm. |
#19
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2007 GT500 24mm bushings.
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