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Old 04-16-2018
astronut1885 astronut1885 is offline
Saleen Forums Registrant
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Southbridge, MA
Posts: 4

Hi. If I use the 12.9 hex cap style bolts suggested by a member above on the arm-to-pivot spots it was rubbing the tire well if the car was sitting on the wheels, and rubbing the cross brace of the watts system when lifted off the wheels. When I switched back to the OEM included 10.9 bolt with a regular bolt head that issue resolved. I am running Energy Suspension direct replacement bushings, and after looking at more photos I'm not sure that they are adding any significant thickness in what is being bolted on, definitely not enough that it would explain why I can't get flange nuts on the backside of the pivot arms.

The instructions specify that a flange nut should be put on the backside of the pivot block where each arm bolts on, and it should be torqued to 120lb/ft. I do not have any exposed threads on the backside of the pivot block, and don't think I would even if I had the stock bushings. I used 60mm long bolts as did the user above with the upgraded hardware. The bolts torqued to spec into the pivot block and I used brass tipped set screws to secure them.

Are there supposed to be flange nuts on the backside of the pivot block on the arm connecting bolts or not? If so, I can just get longer bolts and make it happen, i'm just not sure why mine are not fitting.
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