**I have yet been able to really finish this write up...so their might be some errors**
Overall the install was pretty straight forward
ONCE I got a factory wiring diagram. This setup has NO check valves, so longer starts are normal. I am pleased so far the results of this unit. I highly suggest this install is for someone with good electrical and mechanical skills.If there are any errors in the pictures I apologize in advance.
For the install, I took off my bed. 6 bolts, 2 hoses, 3 7mm screws for the filler neck, and 2 connections out back for the lights. Don't forget to unhook the battery first. The factory FPDM is out back and the tank is located driver side center of the truck.
Here you can see the attached Kenne Bell boost a pump wired into the FPDM. You will need to cut and splice into this connector later on.
Before you remove anything from the tank, blow it off with high compressed air.
Now you must remove the fuel lines and electrical connections. To remove lines, you must either press in completely, or pull out a tab then press in. **note** There is a line IN the tank you must unhook also.
Next you will need to take off the ring that holds the assembly in place. To do this you need a screwdriver and a hammer. Don't be afraid to use some force in this process.
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Now before you do anything else, blow off the area again of any loose dirt. You will need to disconnect one line that is inside the tank. Remove carefully.
(sorry no picture)
You will need transfer the fuel level float sensor from your factory unit to the aftermarket Fore Precision Work's unit. This is a simple snap on, snap off operation. Disconnect the sensor's wire,
DON'T CUT. Connect the wire from the factory level sensor to the wire on the aftermarket unit and use heat shrink to ensure a tight bond between the connection. You will also need to install your fuel pumps and hook them up to the existing wires on the unit. The pump wires will only go one way so it's dummy proof. Tighten hose clamps to the pump once they are installed in the unit. You must also attach a ground wire, just remove a screw and attach(see picture).
Now the unit is ready to install. When installing don't forget to hook up the in-tank line that you disconnected earlier.
You must also place the tab on the hat in the correct orientation. You will see an arrow on the tank(
sorry no picture of arrow) Place the factory ring back on using a screwdriver and hammer.
Apparently, somewhere amongst the years, ford decided to change sizes of some lines. Included in the kit is an extra piece that allows you to use either of the lines. Remove the 2.5mm alan headed screws and replace. Snap your lines back on and you are finished with the physical install of the fuel hat setup itself.
**Note**This is where it will get real vague until I get some time to draw up a wiring diagram.
I installed the 2nd FPDM on the drive side frame rail near the factory FPDM. I drilled and tapped(6mm) the frame to use the supplied hardware. I also installed the two relays where the spare tires normally resides(mine has rides in my bed).
The two fuel pump 30amp breakers that come with the kit I mounted on the firewall with existing factory hardware. I made a small plate and bolted the breakers to it. I routed (2) 10 gauge wires from the batter to the bronze studs of the breakers. The supplied 10 gauge wire and looms travels from the "silver" stud of the breakers, through the cowl, down to the driver side frame rail to the back of the truck to the relays.
**continue on next post**