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Old 04-16-2018
astronut1885 astronut1885 is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Southbridge, MA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2007-52 View Post
Grade 12.9 bolts
Hi. This forum has been of infinite help to me in prepping my Saleen watts link for install, but I do have a few questions that I'm hoping you can answer. I was given a Saleen Watts link (black version, which I believe means the one from Techco), it included the support brace so it's a post TSB version. Thankfully the threads in the diff cover were undamaged so I was able to upgrade the hardware and install I installed this on a 2013 Mustang GT with a bunch of other suspension work. I did all of the suggested hardware changes you gave (your shopping list was excellent) but ran into two issues that I'm hoping you can shed light on.

The issues revolve around the bolts for the lateral arms to pivot attachment. I replaced the factory bushings in the arms with energy suspension bushings for a panhard bar (seems Saleen did this too with their last generation of this link), and I had the following two issues:

1) with the bushing and sleeve in place, which *may* have resulted in it being slightly thicker than the OEM bushing/sleeve, the top arm to pivot bolt head was both hitting the link cross brace and rubbing on my spare tire well when the car was lifted or sitting on it's wheels. There was no adjusting around this so I went back to the grade 10.9 bolts for the arm to pivot attachment and the clearance issues went away. The hex cap 12.9 bolts just have a much thicker head and this could be an issue with the 13 body style. Not sure if there is anything I can do for this, and also not sure if it's worth worrying about as these bolts don't seem prone to failure unlike the pivot to diff cover bolt which is now a 12.9 hex cap bolt (as are all the bolts at the chassis to arm mount points). Did I do something wrong? Your image shows the brace and the 12.9 bolts at the arm-to-pivot point, did you not have a problem with them hitting the brace or tire tub? I might have the refreshed/TSB Gen 1 shorter arms as my car's pivot sits almost at 12/6 vs 1/7 with the newer arms.

2) With the stock 10.9 arm to pivot bolts, they do NOT stick out far enough on the backside of the pivot mount to thread the flange nut onto. The bolts are torqued to 120lb/ft to the pivot thread points, and I used brass tip set screws to anchor it, but should I source longer 10.9 bolts and replace them so that the flange nut can be installed on the back side of the pivot arm? I cannot see if you are using a nut on the back side in your pictures. The instructions call for a nut to be placed on the backside of the pivot where the arm attaches.

I did drive the car home after install, almost 80 miles, and there were no clunks, bumps, noises, etc and the car felt far more planted and stable than it had been. I just want to shore up those two issues and make sure that I am operating safely. The car is primarily a street car with occasional autocross use.

Thanks so much if you respond.
Rob
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