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2005-2009 Saleen Mustang For all S281, S302, H281 and H302 models based on the Ford S-197 Mustang platform, with the exception of the S302 PJ (see below). Be sure to specify year, model and equipment if asking for help.

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  #1  
Old 08-20-2009
wiggywigton's Avatar
wiggywigton wiggywigton is offline
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Default HP increase without a tune?

Hey guys,
Considering I just spent a bunch on a new tune 2 months ago I am looking into what upgrades to do to increase RWHP without a tune. Is that even possible?
Some things I have been looking into:
electric water pump
aluminium drive shaft
headers
off road or high flow X pipe
S/C vacuum upgrade (more effiency than HP increase)

Any ideas or suggestions? It would be GREAT if I could add on another 30+ hp without a tune.
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Mike Wigton
#06-409
MMR 1000S 302 Stroker, BBR Stage 2 cams 3.0 pulley 39# injectors, upgraded CAI, 20" Chrome w/275/35ZR's, 14 in Front Brakes, GT500 Heat Exchanger and Walbro Super Car dual fuel pumps, Rear bumper inlays, Shaftmaster 3.5 Alum Driveshaft, AEM Wideband A/F guage, Pypes Long tube headers X-pipe w/o Cats, Extreme chin spoiler, Steeda Tri-Ax short throw shifter, Hood Struts WMS stealth hood pins, Adj upper and lower rear control arms. tuned by Lito.
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  #2  
Old 08-20-2009
281Saleen 281Saleen is offline
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Location: Berkley, MI
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Id say headers
When they did your tune did they turn off the rear 02's? If not your gonna throw trouble codes, Also if you have a wideband you can make sure a/f's are still inline after you instal headers

(shamless plug) As a matter of fact I have a set f/s right now too JBA long tubes w/ non catted H-pipe
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  #3  
Old 08-20-2009
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olecoot olecoot is offline
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Without a tune? I'd swap out the drive shaft.

YMMV,
'Coot
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  #4  
Old 08-21-2009
S281SC Coop S281SC Coop is offline
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Location: Northern Ohio area
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Besides the drive shaft.........dont forget you can also change out the fly wheel. All of it evolves around less mass that has to be spun,and that equates to more horse power to the rear tires. speaking of rear tires. If you have the 20" X 10" wheels you can also go with the smaller 20" X 9". I know it sounds like im nit picking, but every little bit does help

QWKENUF
Craig
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  #5  
Old 08-21-2009
sello sello is offline
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Whats the best driveshaft to get? also does anyone know what hp gains I should expect from doing the driveshaft.
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  #6  
Old 08-22-2009
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wiggywigton wiggywigton is offline
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Anyone have any experience with the electric pump? I have heard both sides of the story. Reliability seems to be the key issue. I like the idea of the pump being on a t-stat. Especially taking it to the track and allowing the pump to run to help keep the engine cool while waiting for my turn.
Thoughts?
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Mike Wigton
#06-409
MMR 1000S 302 Stroker, BBR Stage 2 cams 3.0 pulley 39# injectors, upgraded CAI, 20" Chrome w/275/35ZR's, 14 in Front Brakes, GT500 Heat Exchanger and Walbro Super Car dual fuel pumps, Rear bumper inlays, Shaftmaster 3.5 Alum Driveshaft, AEM Wideband A/F guage, Pypes Long tube headers X-pipe w/o Cats, Extreme chin spoiler, Steeda Tri-Ax short throw shifter, Hood Struts WMS stealth hood pins, Adj upper and lower rear control arms. tuned by Lito.
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  #7  
Old 08-22-2009
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JimIII@JDM JimIII@JDM is offline
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Vac line upgrade
Aluminum driveshaft
Heat Exchanger (more efficient than actual power gain)
Exhaust
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