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1999-2004 Saleen Mustang For the SN-95 New Edge platform. Be sure to specify year, model and equipment if asking for help.

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  #1  
Old 05-03-2012
TheBernards TheBernards is offline
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Default Alcon 13" Rear Brake Install with Pics

I've received a few questions regarding the rear brakes on my car. I recently purchased this kit from Stage 3 MS, however the kit does not come with instructions. Its is the Alcon Roush kit with 13" rotors and uses stock calipers. Another member contacted me with a few questions so I thought I would share what I learned during the install.

First a few odds and ends. During my intial observations, I thought no way the ebrake cable will be long enough and no way the brake line is going to work either. Don't be discouraged though, it will work. Here are a few points to consider during your install. Also here are some pictures that I took along the way. These will help you calibrate. Left is drivers side for reference also.

Steps:

1. Remove old brake caliper

2. Remove old brake caliper bracket

3. Remove old rotor

You will not need these pieces so put them to the side

4. Remove 2 brackets securing the ebrake cable. 1 is on the control arm, and 1 is a small holder with an 8mm bolt under the front of the wheel well. This will help get some slack in the ebrake cable and also alllow you to pull it out of the body about 1 inch. Should be all you need.

**Do not remove the ebrake cable from the caliper. Also do not remove the little coil spring on the caliper. If you do, be prepared to wrestle with it over a few beers. I did that on the first side but I found it was not necessary. The cable does not disconnect very easily and its even harder to get back in. First side took me 4 hours to get together, second side took about 30 mins BTW. Follow these steps for the 30 min per side version.

5. Loosen the "Moan Brace" that is attached to the axle. Its the black bracket behind the hub and looks like it is attached like a muffler clamp. It will need to slide over about 1/2 inch to allow the Alcon Silver bracket to fit between it and the back of the spindle. Pics attached to show this. It is going to slide over as far as it can go and rest against the control arm mount. Its tight but it fits.

6. Clean all mating surfaces with a wire brush or sand paper. Knock of rust so that everything bolts up nice. Also scrape any loose rust off the spindle between the lug studs. This will allow the rotor to seat well. I added grease to the hub so that it would come apart easily later too.

7. Bolt on the Alcon bracket as shown in the pic below. Notice that you may need to dremel the tin rotor shield if it interferes. I had to trim on the drivers side but not on the passenger side.

8. Once the bracket is bolted up, tighten the muffler like clamp on the moan brace.

9. Put the Rotor on. Secure with 1 lug nut to hold it on ther while working.

10. Bolt on the new FORD black caliper bracket supplied with the kit.

11. Install the pads. Grease contact points with the supplied grease. Backs of the pads and slide points as shown in the pics.

12. Compress the caliper pistons. You will need a special tool available from Harbor Freight. Its called a brake caliper kit. The reason that it important is because the rear pistons require rotation while compressing. They do not just compress like front calipers. They rotate clockwise while compressing on both calipers. This is easy with the caliper tool kit, and near impossible without. Here it is for reference. http://www.harborfreight.com/18-piec...kit-97143.html

**Note: When you compress the piston, the brake fluid will push back up to the master cylinder. If you want to avoid pushing dirty fluid back through the system, crack the bleeder valve open while you are compressing. This will allow the piston to compress and shoot the dirty fluid out into a pan. If you do this method, you should bleed the lines after. I recommend this method.

13. Give the ebrake cable a tug out of the body under the back seat. It will move a little; maybe an inch or so. Pull the caliper up and on the pads. Bolt it on.

14. Looks good right? Go have a beer.

15. Reinstall the ebrake cable brackets.

16. I bled my brakes while I was in there to get fresh fluid in the lines. However it was a choice. I never did remove the brake line so please take note.

17. Go out and enjoy your Saleen.

If anyone detects that I missed a step here please let me know. My wife is calling so I am hurrying through this.
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Last edited by TheBernards; 05-04-2012 at 11:55 AM.
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Old 05-03-2012
TheBernards TheBernards is offline
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New vs Old with the wheel on...
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Old 05-03-2012
TheBernards TheBernards is offline
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Alcon bracket after assembly...
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Old 05-03-2012
TheBernards TheBernards is offline
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The "Moan Brace" and the stack of the brackets...
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Old 05-03-2012
TheBernards TheBernards is offline
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The cable brackets to disconnect and then the finished products...
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DSC02010.jpg  

DSC02011.jpg  

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  #6  
Old 05-06-2012
hennie hennie is offline
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I do agree that the rear brakes do need an upgrade, but i don't see a lot of advantage in this kit while you still have that tiny little one piston caliper, with the other pads and larger rotor it will remain a little cooler so less fading but when it comes down to looks it's much better.

Hennie
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  #7  
Old 05-06-2012
Ghoststalker27 Ghoststalker27 is offline
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First I want to say thanks to Bernard, he went out of his way to help me, very kind and much appreciated. good write up on the install . I just installed these this weekend...while they aren't a huge performance upgrade they do a nice job filling the rear wheels...If you are replacing rotors and pads than this kit is a no brainer imo...





DON'T FORGET THE BRAKE CALIPER TOOL SET, can borrow it for free at autozone, atleast i could
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Old 05-06-2012
TheBernards TheBernards is offline
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hennie -

No arguement on whether this is a huge performance upgrade. I agree, in order to get significantly improved performance you would need to upgrade the caliper.

I saw this as a replacement scenario where I had the choice of spending ~$150 to buy stock replacements or this kit for $300. At the same time, I considered that this kit came with Hawk pads (better performing pads than stock), and also vented rotors (not only slotted, but vented in the center of the disc). The stock rotors are solid 1 pc. The larger diameter rotor certainly can't hurt performance either.

Lastly, since my car has the front 13" brake option from Saleen, the rears looked that much more out of place since they are so small. For a weekend driver on the street, this kit hits the mark in my opinion and certainly doesn't break the budget vs replacing with stock units.
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Last edited by TheBernards; 05-06-2012 at 08:47 PM.
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Old 05-06-2012
TheBernards TheBernards is offline
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Ghoststalker27 -

Welcome. Glad I could help! The car looks great! I agree, no brainer. I would highly recommend this kit.
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Old 05-07-2012
hennie hennie is offline
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Yes they look great, and for that price it's a great upgrade!

Hennie
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  #11  
Old 05-07-2012
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SALEENJAMES SALEENJAMES is offline
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great looking car. love the color ;)
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Old 08-13-2016
OxfordS281 OxfordS281 is offline
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Posting in here for future use.
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Old 1 Week Ago
DarkStallion DarkStallion is offline
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Default Roush Alcon rear rotors and bracket

When you install the Alcon rear brackets to hold the 13 inch rotor, do you need anything more if you have stock rear GT brakes. I was reading that the GT and cobra brakes (94-04) are the same, other than the support bracket being different which allows for a thicker rotor and thinner pad. My question is it required for this Ford support bracket to be changed from the GT version to the Cobra version to use this Alcon rear rotor/bracket upgrade? Also, do I have to change the Anti-moan bracket from the GT one to the Cobra one to use this Alcon rear brake upgrade. Thank you.
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Old 1 Week Ago
DarkStallion DarkStallion is offline
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Default Roush Alcon rear rotors and bracket

I think I may have the answer already. As seen in the first picture in this thread, I see that the caliper shown has the regular GT support bracket and not the Cobra one as the cobra one would be an extra bar in front of the caliper. Okay well if anyone can confirm this that would be great as this would mean I would not need to buy anything else. Now would the pads be different enough for increased surface area for better braking?
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