Installation: Maximum Motorsports Lower Control Arm

[eviligloo]

Just got finished my first project in the new 5 car garage. I figured I'd post up a couple of tips for anyone doing the MM Lower Control Arm install. I won't reinvent the wheel here so I'll just put a link to the instructions and add some more details that weren't discussed.

Supply list:

• Needle nose pliers
• Vice Grips
• Large Screwdriver
• Socket wrench set
• Rubber Mallet
• Breaker bar
• Torque Wrench
• 4 Jack Stands
• floor jack
• pair of disposable rubber gloves
• wheel chocks

Notes:



Comparison of stock LCA to MM lower control arm:







NEVER EVER EVER TAKE OFF THIS SPRING. I can't emphasize this enough. Compressing this spring and getting it back on the screw is next to impossible. I launched the spring across the room over 20 times trying to get it compressed.








The worst part of the install: the bolt near the chassis hits the muffler (in the middle of the picture). I had to loosen the exhaust mounts above the muffler and maneuver the bolt in and out of the mount. This took awhile and a lot of muscle hanging on to the exhaust. It might be worth exploring to take a portion of the exhaust out to gain access. Removing the exhaust wasn't in the instructions....but it's probably because of the way saleen routs the exhaust vs the stock GT. I'm curious to know how other people dealt with this.









Lower Control Arm installed:






Pic 2 of installed LCA's (before I reattached the sway bar):










Final thoughts:

• This project alternated between awesome and frustrating...mostly because of the clearance issue of the bolt hitting the muffler.
  It took FOREVER to get those bolts in and out.

• A 10lb metal control arm to the face isn't something you want. The stupid bolt finally came free.....but at what cost!

• I found when reinstalling the upper bolt that it was easier to keep everything in place by putting a 3/8 socket in the other side of the hole to keep everything steady. Then when the bolt finally threads through the hole it just knocks the support back out.

• It's not a successful build unless you take off at least one piece you didn't need to take off. Just make sure that one piece isn't the spring on the back of the caliper because it will ruin your year. I will never ever EVER take off a spring that's under tension unless I'm 100% positive it has to come off. I thought I needed to take it off to release the tension for the e-brake cable. Nope! Turns out....using the vice grips and a screwdriver was enough to pull the e-brake cord out of its perch.

• Interesting to note that the connection for the MM LCA's at the axle does not have any urethane bushings. Just the chassis side.

• Wear some disposable rubber gloves when applying the grease to the bushings. That stuff gets everywhere and was hard to get off my hands (even with fast orange and dish soap).

• I thought about replacing the coil bushings on either end of the rear springs until I found out how much they were. $20 per bushing. It's freakin' rubber, Ford! How could it be that expensive?

That's all! Feel free to chime in from anyone else that did the install. Maybe other people have tips and tricks to make it go smoothly.

-gloo

[Agent_177]

I added these 2 years ago. Made a noticable difference. I've installed many of them on foxbody mustangs. Install went really easy. Just followed the MM install.

Great write up!

[eviligloo]

Originally Posted by Agent_177

I added these 2 years ago. Made a noticable difference. I've installed many of them on foxbody mustangs. Install went really easy. Just followed the MM install.

Great write up!

Did you end up dropping the exhaust to get the front bolts out?

[Agent_177]

Nope. I have never dropped the exhaust on any of them. What I usually did was put the bolt on the angle and pried the control arm to achieve the same angle. It was a pain. The biggest pain though. Well on the foxbodys. The nuts would be rusted solid to the bolt. LOL.

[RISALEEN281]

I installed these last season and saw a huge difference in traction. Great mod; but mine do creak. I'm wondering if I use a drive on lift and loosen and tighten them back up with the suspension compressed if that will help eliminate the creaking. Its mostly when they are cold and i'm turning.

[Agent_177]

Originally Posted by RISALEEN281

I installed these last season and saw a huge difference in traction. Great mod; but mine do creak. I'm wondering if I use a drive on lift and loosen and tighten them back up with the suspension compressed if that will help eliminate the creaking. Its mostly when they are cold and i'm turning.

It is a very good possibility. You are supposed to have the suspension loaded when tightening everything up. I'd try that first before anything else.

[OxfordS281]

These are on sale today on the mm site!