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2005-2009 Saleen Mustang For all S281, S302, H281 and H302 models based on the Ford S-197 Mustang platform, with the exception of the S302 PJ (see below). Be sure to specify year, model and equipment if asking for help.

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  #1  
Old 03-20-2019
Saleen206 Saleen206 is offline
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Default Q: Series VI Rear Needle Bearing Removal?

Hey Fellow Saleen Owners! Recently Purchased a rebuild kit for my Series 6 Supercharger and am in the process of removing the rear needle bearings. It looks like they might be closed Back factory bearings? I removed the 2 Plugs behind the bearings in the housing but im afraid to press to0 hard on the back of the bearings if its not part of it. The replacement bearings in the picture look like open back bearings. Tried using a Blind Hole slide hammer puller but no luck. Do these just press out from the back? Thank you for any help!
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  #2  
Old 03-24-2019
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Aussie-Parnelli Aussie-Parnelli is offline
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No you can't knock it out from rear.
Took me awhile to work it out.
Firstly you have to remove the needles out of the bearing to allow the puller to grip the shell
I ended up making this tool which simplified the process. This way you do not damage anything. The alloy plate is 10mm thick
I also made a special tool to press the new bearing in.
Be aware the grease used in this bearing is harmful use caution and gloves when replacing them
Attached Thumbnails
SC bearing remover.jpg  

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  #3  
Old 03-24-2019
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Thank you for the reply I appreciate the info and the help! Nobody ive called will help with anything unless I have them do the whole supercharger. Iím stuck with the rebuild kit so I have no choice. I have pretty much that same collet puller but not the long screw shaft just a slide hammmer. I guess Iíll try to make something like that thank you! Looked like I could press them out after popping out those plugs. Glad I didnít. Did you also replace your rotor pack bearings? Thanks again for your time itís greatly appreciated!
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Blue 39lb Injectors
3.6 Pulley
Saleen Airbox Lid
Saleen Hard Plastic Tube
Brenspeed E-Mail Tune
Exedy Mach 500 Clutch
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  #4  
Old 03-25-2019
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I have wanted to pull this to pieces for sometime, you gave me the inspiration.
Not easy especially not damaging rotor pack or gears....but possible with right equipment.
First remove the 3 pin coupling undoing the cap screws
Next the 12 point nuts holding the gears to rotors these are loctited on so a little heat may be needed. I managed to get one with no heat.
Thankfully I have a hydraulic 2 leg puller which I was able to get large gear off rotor. Then pushed the rotor out.
That then enabled me to get the other gear off rotor using hydraulic press. Then pushed that rotor out of housing.
I marked the housing with a 3 making sure the 3 vane rotor went back into the correct position.

Tony
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2008 S302E #02 RHD Saleen Demo/Press
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Parnelli Jones #46 Super Shaker RHD
Parnelli Jones #407 Super Shaker RHD (SOLD)
'06 GT Coupe "Saleen Racer" RHD
1970 GT-HO Falcon Phase 2 Owned since new
1966 Shelby GT-350 LHD
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  #5  
Old 03-26-2019
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Don't use a slide hammer, you may crack or break the thin supports. This is aluminum and breaks easily. I would just clean those bearings and repack them with proper grease. They are not easy to R&R and you likely have to devise some special tools to safely remove and then press them back in. Have a look here: https://saleenforums.soec.org/showth...458#post146458

Last edited by lenko; 03-26-2019 at 10:57 AM.
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  #6  
Old 03-27-2019
Saleen206 Saleen206 is offline
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Tony thank you so much!! Wow you are the man for posting these pics! Probably the best shots of these I have seen on the net! Absolutely helps being able to see how it all is pieced together. I have all the press equipment and pullers and access to snap on for any special tools at work. I successfully rebuilt the front snout today! My next question is what is your plan to realign the gears and rotors? I was figuring marking the gears together and the rotors to the back of the housing. Did you mark them? Also noticed there is Allen holes in the rear of the rotors, maybe for a special tool to keep them aligned? Thank you again, I believe having this info out there for some of us able to wrench on our own cars if great and impossible to find. Thanks for sharing buddy! Here is a few pics of the Rotor Pack Bearing Part Numbers. I got them from John Bond Performance at a decent price! https://jonbondperformance.com/index...roducts_id=171





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Exedy Mach 500 Clutch
Exedy Billet Steel Lightweight Flywheel
Cervinis C Style Scoops
Baer Eradispeed +2 Drilled/Slotted Rotors
Baer Eradispeed 14 in Rear Drilled/Slotted Upgrade

Last edited by Saleen206; 03-27-2019 at 03:03 AM.
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  #7  
Old 03-27-2019
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Lenko, thank you for the comment and advice! Unfortunately I already tried to remove one so I have to replace them now. My car has 105k so Its probably not a bad Idea to change them anyway. I think I know how to get them out now I just need to fab up the puller. Thanks for helping!
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Blue 39lb Injectors
3.6 Pulley
Saleen Airbox Lid
Saleen Hard Plastic Tube
Brenspeed E-Mail Tune
Exedy Mach 500 Clutch
Exedy Billet Steel Lightweight Flywheel
Cervinis C Style Scoops
Baer Eradispeed +2 Drilled/Slotted Rotors
Baer Eradispeed 14 in Rear Drilled/Slotted Upgrade
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  #8  
Old 03-27-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saleen206 View Post
Lenko, thank you for the comment and advice! Unfortunately I already tried to remove one so I have to replace them now. My car has 105k so Its probably not a bad Idea to change them anyway. I think I know how to get them out now I just need to fab up the puller. Thanks for helping!
I bought a two armed puller and had to grind some of the claws thinner to get it behind the bearing cage to press them in. It's important to get offsetting pressure so you don't put any stress on the cage or the tiny arms so they don't crack or break. "Where there's a will there's a way." Good luck.
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Old 03-27-2019
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Here's what I used to press the bearings in. You can see where I ground the arms off so they would go behind the bearing cage to enable pressing the bearings in. You can use a suitable socket on the bearing to push it in and countersink it a bit. I think it calls for .07 thou, but that's hard to get perfect. Oh! and I cut the ends of the H-bar at the top so it will go in the case screw cavities without hitting the walls.
IMG_20190327_074133.jpg
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IMG_20190327_074133.jpg  


Last edited by lenko; 03-27-2019 at 10:12 PM. Reason: add info correction to .07 thou
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  #10  
Old 03-27-2019
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Hey Lenko
I think you were looking for a 6.5 case, I think I was the one who outbid you last year.
There was a problem with that case the lower needle bearing holes were not finished actually 1mm too small. I have it an engineering shop to rectify.
Not sure how many 6.5 cases were ever made I expect not many. I have a 6.5 lid on my race car and Extreme. Also the 6.5 water crossover with thermostat housing on all 4 of my supercharged Saleens. It is a shame Saleen did keep producing these parts.
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  #11  
Old 03-27-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aussie-Parnelli View Post
Hey Lenko
I think you were looking for a 6.5 case, I think I was the one who outbid you last year.
There was a problem with that case the lower needle bearing holes were not finished actually 1mm too small. I have it an engineering shop to rectify.
Not sure how many 6.5 cases were ever made I expect not many. I have a 6.5 lid on my race car and Extreme. Also the 6.5 water crossover with thermostat housing on all 4 of my supercharged Saleens. It is a shame Saleen did keep producing these parts.
Makes me feel better that I did not win that bid. In any event I was able to assure myself that mine would not cause me problems as I installed the two support bolts and it been running great ever since. I am now entirely confident in my unit and stopped looking for a case last year after I made the correction. I do however like the idea of the 6.5 case as in some ways it would be easier to handle and work on.

Just last week, the short rubber hose to the crossover started to leak so off came the charger and the hose replaced. I can probably take the S/C off in my sleep. So easy to work on.
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  #12  
Old 03-27-2019
cc93cruiser cc93cruiser is offline
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very informative post....
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  #13  
Old 03-30-2019
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Ok here’s an update. I want to try and get as much info out as I can for future use for anyone and I hope it helps. I know many think I’m probably an idiot for trying to do any of this but regardless if I screw it up at least I learned something and we get some good info from it. I would like to learn so I can rely on myself to repair it in the future :)

So, I successfully installed the rear needle bearings using advice from the previous posts thank you! I removed them with a blind hole expanding collet puller piece attached to a threaded rod cut to fit the length of the case I got at Home Depot. Put the rod through a brace from another puller I had and treaded a nut and washer onto it. They came out no problem. Note that I measured the bearings were originally installed about 1mm below the top of the bore. They can go deeper. I re installed them at that depth. I used a hydraulic press and some sockets/extensions and lightly lubed the bearings.
Long story short, it was very easy and not at all as scary as it seems if you just go slow and are careful.

However now I do have a loud knocking noise from the blower and what feels like excessive lash or play back and forth if I spin the snout side to side. It clunks. I’m guessing it must be the rotor pack bearings. Everything else is new. I did install a new coupler supplied by Jon Bond Performance but it sounds more then that. Maybe I’ll try try the original.
Do these have any lash in the gears? And does anyone know the spec for the rotor clearance from rotor to front bearing plate?

I guess I’m going to have to try and do them. Gonna take it apart and re inspect it. Maybe post some videos to YouTube. Thank you for your help!













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06 Saleen s281 SC #206 / Black
Blue 39lb Injectors
3.6 Pulley
Saleen Airbox Lid
Saleen Hard Plastic Tube
Brenspeed E-Mail Tune
Exedy Mach 500 Clutch
Exedy Billet Steel Lightweight Flywheel
Cervinis C Style Scoops
Baer Eradispeed +2 Drilled/Slotted Rotors
Baer Eradispeed 14 in Rear Drilled/Slotted Upgrade

Last edited by Saleen206; 03-30-2019 at 03:43 PM.
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  #14  
Old 03-30-2019
zeitmorder zeitmorder is offline
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Very Good information in this thread.
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  #15  
Old 03-31-2019
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So I removed the supercharger today and inspected it for any new damage or signs of wear and could not find any! It still rattled/knocks/grinds every now and then. I posted some videos to YouTube if anybody has time to check them out and give me your opinion of the cause of the noise I would be very appreciative! I did replace the rear bearings and rebuilt the snout but not the rotor pack bearings. I do have them though. I mean that’s all that’s left to replace besides gears right? I measured .008 on the clearances from both front rotors to front bearing plate. Is this bad rotor pack bearings? Or excessive drive gear lash? Thank you!

https://youtu.be/x8JxV1wetto

https://youtu.be/8u6aX4D-W2Q

https://youtu.be/OsiA8Ic5U3E

https://youtu.be/1VPHNWtZ568
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Blue 39lb Injectors
3.6 Pulley
Saleen Airbox Lid
Saleen Hard Plastic Tube
Brenspeed E-Mail Tune
Exedy Mach 500 Clutch
Exedy Billet Steel Lightweight Flywheel
Cervinis C Style Scoops
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Baer Eradispeed 14 in Rear Drilled/Slotted Upgrade
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  #16  
Old 03-31-2019
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Some of that sound is what's called rotor clash. I have that too but I don't have that clacking and that other noise when you rotate your pulley by hand (mine is smooth) I don't recall the play in those gears, but when I rotated the screws everything seemed tight. Like rear end gears, I would think there has to be some play (backlash) but how much, don't know. Were you able to get that center bolt in the nose tight when you assembled it?
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Last edited by lenko; 03-31-2019 at 08:20 PM. Reason: add info
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  #17  
Old 03-31-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zeitmorder View Post
Very Good information in this thread.

I think so too. The more information we share the better. Companies repairing superchargers are pretty tight lipped for their own reasons. We shouldn't have to send our chargers away for some repairs which aren't that complicated. Very costly and time consuming. By sharing we can avoid some pitfalls and save some $.
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  #18  
Old 03-31-2019
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Hi Mike

Looks like it is definitely your gear back lash.
Just took belt off my race car and there absolutely no back lash noticeable. Also checked those gears I pulled of rotors last week and the mesh is really tight.
I would say your problem started when the supercharger run out of oil and has worn the teeth of the gears. Also it would be a good time to replace those front rotor bearings as they are probably not in a good condition either as they are also lubricated from the oil.

Try Jon Bond maybe they can supply new gears.
Cheers mate, it is nothing you have done.
Also make sure you use the proper Anaerobic sealant when putting it back together

Tony
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Parnelli Jones #46 Super Shaker RHD
Parnelli Jones #407 Super Shaker RHD (SOLD)
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  #19  
Old 04-04-2019
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Ok, first I want to say thank you to the few who have taken the time to help me especially Aussie-Parnelli and Lenko! After careful inspection I also agree that it looks like I smoked the drive gears when the fluid went dry. Its still possible that the Rotor Pack gears are causing backlash but from what I can tell they do not have any play in them. I've called around and found that the only place that seems to have extra parts is Jon Bond. Of course I need to send the whole thing in to get new gears or whatever they deem it needs. I was told he bought all the stock in parts. Im sure they will put me through the ringer with everything.

Anyways since I have not found a good article on replacing the rotor bearings and I can't get replacement gears it looks like im sending it in when I have 4k for a rebuild. That's what PSE quoted me for worst case when I spoke to him. he also said he would send it back in pieces if I declined or I could just let him keep it... ha ha umm No. plus a $150 inspection fee and $250 each way for shipping.

Thanks again to all who helped me and I hope something was learned with the rear bearings here! Hopefully ill have it running again this year!
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Blue 39lb Injectors
3.6 Pulley
Saleen Airbox Lid
Saleen Hard Plastic Tube
Brenspeed E-Mail Tune
Exedy Mach 500 Clutch
Exedy Billet Steel Lightweight Flywheel
Cervinis C Style Scoops
Baer Eradispeed +2 Drilled/Slotted Rotors
Baer Eradispeed 14 in Rear Drilled/Slotted Upgrade
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  #20  
Old 04-04-2019
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Hi Mike
That is a bummer, I bought quite a bit of stuff when Saleen was auctioned off. A crowd in Tennessee ended up with most of it then put it up on Ebay. It was cheap compared to what Saleen was selling it previously but then I had to ship it to Australia which isn't cheap anymore, so that limited what I bought.
Just a thought why don't you go to a good engineering shop in your location and find out how much to manufacture the gears for you. With CNC machines it is a lot easier these days to reproduce parts.
I am seeing my engineer in a few days I will take my spare ones down as they are out and ask him to quote, to see if it is feasible may be another option.

Will let you know

Tony
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Parnelli Jones #45 Super Shaker RHD
Parnelli Jones #46 Super Shaker RHD
Parnelli Jones #407 Super Shaker RHD (SOLD)
'06 GT Coupe "Saleen Racer" RHD
1970 GT-HO Falcon Phase 2 Owned since new
1966 Shelby GT-350 LHD
1965 TBird Conv. 429SCJ Drag Pak 4 speed
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  #21  
Old 04-04-2019
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Hi Mike

Been thinking more about your situation. First of all your rotor pack will be fine as it can only be damaged by a foreign object "like mine" or the collapse of those front bearings and neither happened. So all you need are the new gears and they certainly ain't worth $4000
As I said in my earlier post check around with some gear manufacturers or good engineering shops.
Hopefully I will get back to you early next week

Tony
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Parnelli Jones #45 Super Shaker RHD
Parnelli Jones #46 Super Shaker RHD
Parnelli Jones #407 Super Shaker RHD (SOLD)
'06 GT Coupe "Saleen Racer" RHD
1970 GT-HO Falcon Phase 2 Owned since new
1966 Shelby GT-350 LHD
1965 TBird Conv. 429SCJ Drag Pak 4 speed
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  #22  
Old 04-04-2019
Saleen206 Saleen206 is offline
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Thank you Tony! Definitely an option to consider. Yes my screws are fine and the bearings seem ok but maybe they did go bad when dry and itís just not noticeable? Anyhow, Iíd very much appreciate your help if you can get a quote on gears when you take your stuff in. I know it might be less than 4K to send it in but if I donít have that and it is then they said they will send it back in pieces lol. Thanks again for your help, opinion and ideas! -Mike
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Blue 39lb Injectors
3.6 Pulley
Saleen Airbox Lid
Saleen Hard Plastic Tube
Brenspeed E-Mail Tune
Exedy Mach 500 Clutch
Exedy Billet Steel Lightweight Flywheel
Cervinis C Style Scoops
Baer Eradispeed +2 Drilled/Slotted Rotors
Baer Eradispeed 14 in Rear Drilled/Slotted Upgrade
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  #23  
Old 04-15-2019
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Guys, everything I'm about to say is whole hearted with the best of intentions to genuinely INFORM, not bash. I am a Saleen owner, heavily involved in the Saleen world and have been for 22 years.

In looking at your photo's I was cringing because everything your showing people was not an "ideal" way of doing things. Your tools were mostly all wrong. Its one thing to take the risk on and possibly damage your own supercharger which I know what you did wrong with yours, but its another to have people think this is something that can be done with basic tools.

The tooling we have built has been either CNC'd, laser cut, and then with precision built. This has costed us some number well over $10,000 to properly work on these superchargers. Showing people to use a blind bearing puller to remove the bearings is going to cost someone to destroy their supercharger. Pressing them in with a press without the right tooling also poses the same massive potential of breaking the bearing plate.

I certainly can appreciate doing things yourself and avoid giving a shop your money, but somethings should be left to a shop that has those tools thus saving a headache and lots more cost.

If you would like, I will be more than happy to discuss with you on the phone what I believe is wrong with your supercharger and help you get it back up and running. My advise would be to not run the supercharger anymore based upon what you've said.
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Last edited by Jason @ 281m; 04-16-2019 at 01:59 PM.
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  #24  
Old 2 Weeks Ago
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Hey Mike
How is the car running with the new gears, trust it is getting good use
Glad I could help

Tony
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Parnelli Jones #45 Super Shaker RHD
Parnelli Jones #46 Super Shaker RHD
Parnelli Jones #407 Super Shaker RHD (SOLD)
'06 GT Coupe "Saleen Racer" RHD
1970 GT-HO Falcon Phase 2 Owned since new
1966 Shelby GT-350 LHD
1965 TBird Conv. 429SCJ Drag Pak 4 speed
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Old 2 Weeks Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saleen206 View Post
Ok, first I want to say thank you to the few who have taken the time to help me especially Aussie-Parnelli and Lenko! After careful inspection I also agree that it looks like I smoked the drive gears when the fluid went dry. Its still possible that the Rotor Pack gears are causing backlash but from what I can tell they do not have any play in them. I've called around and found that the only place that seems to have extra parts is Jon Bond. Of course I need to send the whole thing in to get new gears or whatever they deem it needs. I was told he bought all the stock in parts. Im sure they will put me through the ringer with everything.

Anyways since I have not found a good article on replacing the rotor bearings and I can't get replacement gears it looks like im sending it in when I have 4k for a rebuild. That's what PSE quoted me for worst case when I spoke to him. he also said he would send it back in pieces if I declined or I could just let him keep it... ha ha umm No. plus a $150 inspection fee and $250 each way for shipping.

Thanks again to all who helped me and I hope something was learned with the rear bearings here! Hopefully ill have it running again this year!
Hey Saleen206,

I somehow missed this post...I think you had been emailing me as well or that could have been another person dealing with Jon Bond.

But full disclosure, as I understood it direct from both sources PSE, and Jon Bond....Jon Bond bought all of PSE's inventory when they closed up shop sometime in the last year or two, not all the inventory. They may have reopened, I'm not sure as I don't concern myself with PSE, I only know this because he called me to buy his inventory, I told him no.

Since we specialize in the Saleen Superchargers we have plenty of parts and parts availability. We have the original Saleen designed and build computerized supercharger dyno, original or better parts and have the best warranty in the business, 4 years or 40,000 miles. Our success rate on doing top notch work exceeds even far past the original standards. This claim is based upon a 98% client satisfaction rate....yes its true you cannot make everyone happy or would want too...lol. We have invested well over $10,000 in specific tooling hand manufactured to produce a product that can warranty giving such a strong warranty.

Our clients who keep coming back again and again for great 1 on 1 personal service and top notch craftsmanship keep us going strong.

As most of you know since we provide a custom build crate that is CAD designed, laser cut open cell foam...shipping cost are at a minimum. Average cost is $135 each way with $5,000 insurance. $250 each way is a robbery.

If you need help, give us a call...we'll get your supercharger back on the road and under pressure!
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Jason | 281 Motorsports

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1996 Cobra Vortech SC / Track prepped
2002 Saleen Speedster #02-346
2007 Roush TrakPak-Race car
2015 Mustang GT

Check out our facility promo video here: http://bit.ly/1yHNfxM

Email: sales@281m.com
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