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1999-2004 Saleen Mustang For the SN-95 New Edge platform. Be sure to specify year, model and equipment if asking for help.

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  #1  
Old 11-13-2016
snakeplisskin snakeplisskin is offline
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Default Help: Series II low intercooler leak - 2002 S281 SC

So my intercooler resorvoir coolant level is down again about halfway over 3 months on my 2002 sc car. Nothing visible dripping or wet so I'm concluding that the exchanger may have a slow leak. 50k miles on the car. Also my pump stopped pumping a few days ago but motor is still working. The impeller may have sheared off or there is a clog in system. So it looks like I'll keep my intercoolers I have for sale and install them,lol
The pump was fairly new as previous owner had it replaced maybe 18 months ago, have to remove it and test it flow capabilities.
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  #2  
Old 11-14-2016
snakeplisskin snakeplisskin is offline
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Guess mods changed my heading a bit lol
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  #3  
Old 01-24-2017
snakeplisskin snakeplisskin is offline
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So I'm going to start work on the car this weekend. The leak has gotten worse so I stopped driving it, don't need to hydro lock it and smoke the engine. Car set a code last week on the way home from work. A little research and the right rear o2 sensor is most likely seeing coolant and or contamination.
I will post pictures and progress as I go. It won't be a speed build. As I have my truck to drive in the meantime.
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  #4  
Old 01-29-2017
snakeplisskin snakeplisskin is offline
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No work on the car this weekend as I caught the flu bug Thursday, boo. Just recovering and will shoot for next weekend to start the work. At least the fever is gone,lol
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  #5  
Old 01-30-2017
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If you need parts or service on your car, we are only a few hours away. We can also service your supercharger.
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  #6  
Old 01-31-2017
snakeplisskin snakeplisskin is offline
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Ok thanks Jason
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  #7  
Old 02-19-2017
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I got started today on teardown and testing the pump. Pump is good and works as it has a cover to the impeller you can remove and check inside. I keyed on power with cover off and it spun fine when it kicked on. This leads me to think there is a clog or something collapsed in the intercooler.

Car ran rough also when I was getting it on the ramps. I'll also be pulling plugs to isolate which cylinder is having the problem.

Some pics for your viewing pleasure!
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  #8  
Old 02-19-2017
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  #9  
Old 02-24-2017
snakeplisskin snakeplisskin is offline
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Work will continue tomorrow. Stay tuned!Lol
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  #10  
Old 02-25-2017
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I had good progress today as I almost got the intake/blower off. Ran into a couple minor snags such as #4 coil bolt head was partially rounded, so it will come with intake when I pull it and I'll get it when blower comes off. Had to loosen right fuel rail also and take injectors out as so I could get a straight down shot on #3 coil bolt with a socket as it was stubborn and starting to round also with just a wrench. Plus there is an intake bolt right behind coil, under intake elbow so you need get it out of the way as that's your only access to that bolt.

MAP sensor needs to come off the bracket on driver's side rear as it partially covers the rear intake bolt. That's all I have left along with a few intake bolts and it will be free. I'll pull it forward a bit and then disconnect intercooler lines in the rear.
Going to finish removal tomorrow, my back said stop today so I did,lol
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  #11  
Old 02-25-2017
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  #12  
Old 02-26-2017
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Mission accomplished! the assembly is removed and seperated. It's pretty grungy with all the oil and crude inside the intake. If you look closely at picture of inside the intake, in the upper left corner in the puddle of oil you'll see green drops,lol
The cooler lines have corrosion in them, so I'll be replacing all lines and fittings as well as installing an oil seperator system to keep all the crankcase oil and fumes out of the air intake and blower/cooler.

I'll start compiling a list this week and ordering up the new lines. I'll make them myself with some shiny new blue anodized fittings. I'll use pushlock hose again as original.
Also everything needs to be cleaned/degreased, I'm kinda anal, lol so I'll spend next weekend cleaning engine and bay and all the parts.

It wasn't to bad a job, I had about 4 hours in teardown at a casual pace.

Pics coming!
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  #13  
Old 02-26-2017
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  #14  
Old 02-26-2017
snakeplisskin snakeplisskin is offline
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  #15  
Old 02-26-2017
snakeplisskin snakeplisskin is offline
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A lot of bolts were not very tight on the car, Idle control bolts, egr bolts and blower to intake bolts were all not to tight anymore. I'll be dabing them all with blue loctite so it all remains tight upon reassembly.My car has 54k on it, so all this loosened up over time.
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  #16  
Old 03-05-2017
snakeplisskin snakeplisskin is offline
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I got the engine, engine bay and intake cleaned up this weekend, so just blower to clean and change fluid.
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  #17  
Old 03-15-2017
snakeplisskin snakeplisskin is offline
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Had just Sunday to do some work. I got the lower intake and cooler all set. I ordered new heater hoses since mine are most likely original and now's the time to change them while it's easy. They were special order so hoping to have them by friday.
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  #18  
Old 03-25-2017
snakeplisskin snakeplisskin is offline
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Update from last weekends progress. I got everything cleaned up and lower intake completed and installed. A couple of things I wanted to improve on was the boost sensor was to tight to the fuel line crossover at the back of the intake. I got a 1/8" pipe adapter fitting to move sender away a bit from fuel line, see pic.

Another thing I wanted to do was be able to install the intake, blower and then elbow all seperately on the engine instead of the way I took it off, as one piece.
Some minor mods were necessary and I trial fit everything together off the car and it looks to work. The biggest problem is the lower right intake elbow nut is the ***** to get to as it sits. Also the nuts are lock nuts that hold elbow on to blower.
The solution is to cut about 4 threads off the stud to allow more room for a wrench to get in from underneath and to use a non locking nut which I will use a dab of loctite when it goes together.
I also cut the top right stud and will use a standard nut there also. The other 4 nuts will be the locking nuts.

The other mod is to notch open the right rear fuel rail bolt tab. See pic. This bolt can't be removed because intake elbow covers it, so it must be notched. #4 injector can still be installed with rail once elbow is on. Also fuel rail must be laid in before elbow goes on or your screwed lol.

Lastly a stubby wrench needs to be modified, see pic. I also grinded the outside of the box end down some as well for easier fitment around the nut.

That's it not much time to mod this to be able to tighten blower plate down easily and if I have to remove intake elbow at a later date.

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  #19  
Old 03-25-2017
snakeplisskin snakeplisskin is offline
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I also got the new heater hoses, motorcraft parts, nice.Click image for larger version

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  #20  
Old 04-02-2017
snakeplisskin snakeplisskin is offline
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So last week I had the intake installed, but I wanted to heat wrap the bottom of the intake and forgot, grrr. I was determined to still do it with the intake installed and 3 hours later it was done. I really didn't want to remove it again.

One thing with trimming the two studs on the blower is if all six are trimmed it makes it even easier. I left the egr attached to the pipe, so this gave a little resistance installing intake elbow.

Also I reused the two factory 90 degree fittings at back of the intake as they are a tighter/ shorter 90 degree radius than the blue anodized fittings I'll use on the other hoses.
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  #21  
Old 04-02-2017
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I got everything done under the hood this weekend, so all that remains is mounting the new front intercooler. All cooler lines are run. I will probably also change upper and lower rad hoses as I have no clue how old they are. Lower looks original!

Couple of small issues I came across, where the IAC and TB mount some of the brass inserts were sticking out not allowing said parts to sit flat. I hand filed them flat, brass is soft,lol see pics.

I also have a mosaleen no slip belt grip kit I got with the car when I bought it along with a complete blower gasket kit. Supposedly I can see 2lbs more boost, so we will see. Along with a new gates belt that is also installed, see pic. One idler pulley was bad, so that is changed out also.

I also installed two oil seperators off each valve cover so no more oil going in intake.
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  #22  
Old 04-02-2017
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  #23  
Old 04-02-2017
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  #24  
Old 04-11-2017
snakeplisskin snakeplisskin is offline
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Happy days! The Saleen is running again!I got everything buttoned up on sunday and it fired right up, it ran a bit rough until all air was out of the fuel rails and then purred like her old self!

Had one leak, the good old intercooler pump, it's seeping coolant out of the impeller seal, grrr. So not wanting to buy a new pump I did some research from old threads and the seal is available from any pump dealer that carries oberhofer pumps. Hopefully I can get it by friday and get it swapped out.

I stumbled across a thread over on SVT about bogging under WOT with a stick car that is caused by the returnless fuel system and/or the computer.
What happens is everytime you get on and off gas during WOT the computer is raising and then lowering fuel pressure so quickly that the car bogs when you hit the next gear and mat the pedal.
This can also blow out the fuel pressure sensor on the fuel rail and leave you stranded.
There are two steps to the fix, sometimes the first step will be an improvement and it will be enough. It's a fuel pressure sensor antiblow out disc and it goes under the sensor. See pics. LFP sells them for $16 and has them on ebay.
The second part to eliminate bog entirely is a PPRV delete in the fuel pump nest. This valve is what holds fuel pressure when you shut car off. You can search SVT for more details.
My intercooler stuck out a bit as the LFP one is a bit longer and thicker, so I trimmed the foam bumper piece and walla, it works,lol
No holes come in the LFP cooler, so it took some time to mock things up drill, test fit and repeat. All in all it went well with no surprises.

Changed rad hoses as well and oil/filter. rearend fluid isgetting changed out as well.
Enjoy the pics!
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  #25  
Old 04-11-2017
snakeplisskin snakeplisskin is offline
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picture of finished product!!
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  #26  
Old 04-23-2017
snakeplisskin snakeplisskin is offline
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So everything is back together but I wanted some type of grille for the lower front fascia to protect the intercooler. The saleen guy on ebay had a complete saleen explorer front fascia grille kit and the main center piece looked like it wound work, it was plenty wide enough, the height was the question mark. So for $75 bucks I ordered it and took a chance.

To say it fits perfectly is an understatement, it's like it was made for the car! lol. pics to follow.

I also changed rear diff fluid and a pic of my awesome cover is included.

I had a new windshield banner I got with the car as the original was very dried up and I scraped it off last year.
One thing that bothered me about the banner is that when it was applied by saleen the ends looked like they drooped, it's because it is cut straight and doesn't curve with the glass.

I wanted it to curve with the glass so I cut each letter apart, lined it up and it came out awesome. That decal is so delicate, a lot of patience and slow going is required.
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  #27  
Old 04-23-2017
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Picture of no grille and then backside for mounting and with grille.
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  #28  
Old 04-23-2017
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Picture of saleen cover and windshield banner install.
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  #29  
Old 04-24-2017
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Nice progress. I'm slowly trying to catch up and read all the issues and ways you've corrected everything. Its just a bit tough reading backwards, rather than from top to bottom. Oh well.
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  #30  
Old 04-24-2017
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Thanks bro. Sit back crack a beer and start reading!
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  #31  
Old 04-30-2017
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I got home from work Friday and my registration renewal awaited me which also means the dreaded smog test. I needed to get my monitors reset, so I took the a long drive which turned out to be about fifty miles or so. I started out cruising surface streets to make sure everything was cool before hitting the interstate.
I headed south to Jean Nevada which is about fifteen miles one way doing about 80-90. The car runs fantastic at high speeds! On the way back I would let car coast down to 65-70 and then accelerate back to 90, I did this about six times. All the monitors reset except the evap system. Since most states allow one incomplete monitor, I was confident I would pass.Yesterday morning took it for the smog and renewal and passed no problem, nice!

The only problem I had was the boost gauge was only reading like two pounds. When I was removing the sensor on teardown I tried to loosen the nut on top and the whole stud turned with it. It could be damaged and also I extended the sensor further away from intake so the boost signal may be weaker as well.

Either way I have new digital dynotune boost and air fuel gauges coming. If you have never heard of this gauge company do a Google search. They are probably the most accurate gauges on the market. I have used them before in my nitrous fox body I had and can't say enough about them.
Once I get them I'll post pictures of them during installation.
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  #32  
Old 05-14-2017
snakeplisskin snakeplisskin is offline
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Update time! All gauges are installed and looking good! I also scored a carbon fiber dash bezel with integrated gauge pods on ebay and along with a new instrument lens, it looks sick!!

One cool thing about the dynotune gauges is the bodies are threaded and an aluminum ring screws on to secure the gauge, pretty slick. Also got my matching continental extreme front tires installed on saturday. They cost $50 more each than the rears because of the odd size, lmao.

Here come the pics, enjoy!
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  #33  
Old 05-14-2017
snakeplisskin snakeplisskin is offline
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Here's the pictures...
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  #34  
Old 05-14-2017
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more pictures...
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  #35  
Old 05-15-2017
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Looks like a nice project experience. Thank you for sharing photos of your effort.
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  #36  
Old 05-15-2017
snakeplisskin snakeplisskin is offline
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Thanks Dave! Are you going to Carlisle this year?
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  #37  
Old 05-15-2017
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Dave Dave is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snakeplisskin View Post
Thanks Dave! Are you going to Carlisle this year?
I have my event pass, but I am not committed to attend this year. I will decide the week of.

This is a wonderful automotive event. Enjoy as much as you can!
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  #38  
Old 05-16-2017
snakeplisskin snakeplisskin is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave View Post
I have my event pass, but I am not committed to attend this year. I will decide the week of.

This is a wonderful automotive event. Enjoy as much as you can!
Yes I will thanks!
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  #39  
Old 05-31-2017
snakeplisskin snakeplisskin is offline
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I'm rolling into Carlisle tomorrow afternoon. The car runs fantastic on the open road. I only got pulled over once in Kansas lol. I was only going four mph over and the troopers were on the other side of the highway with someone else pulled over. The one trooper was all excited about the car and asked me a bunch of questions. Then he wanted to see the engine. I showed it to him and we talked a little before I was on my way. I think he told his buddy to let's go check it out when I went by.lol
I got one other flashing police lights warning from an unmarked unit in the Rockies up behind boulder when I was hitting some twisty turns. He was parked at the end of a small straight away and I was heading towards him as I blew by an astro van.lol then the lights came on. **** van was holding up my fun!
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  #40  
Old 06-26-2017
cms2820 cms2820 is offline
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Location: Murrells Inlet, SC 29576
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Same model year similar problem...Check the coolant tank for blocked suction line... I had intermittent over heating and found three, YES, 3 of the pieces of black poly washers left behind by the "SALEEN" guy that drilled the holes for the inlet, outlet fittings and sender unit in the coolant tank!!!!
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  #41  
Old 02-02-2020
S281MORPH S281MORPH is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Lafayette IN
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Default Awesome information

Currently doing the same work to my car.
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