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2007-2008 S331 Sportruck For discussion of the F-150 platform "Thunder."

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  #1  
Old 04-17-2009
Richard_P_Harvey Richard_P_Harvey is offline
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Default S331 Factory Boost Gauge Pod

As you guys may know I don't have an S331 but do have a Mark LT with the same SC installed. So far I have not been able to get a boost gauge to work despite getting advise from Bill at Saleen before he lost his job. He suggested a vacuum style gauge spliced into the vac line on the drivers side of the SC. That did not work, so now I'm thinking of one of the dash pod's that all you S331 owners have. I'm not thrilled with the look but I can deal with that I guess. My question is where do the electrical cables plug into, I'm thinking it's the air-box but I have the JDM upgrade installed so I don't have the standard airbox. Can this unit still work....?
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  #2  
Old 04-17-2009
Light02atl Light02atl is offline
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Richard,

I thought the saleen gauge was vacuum controlled, although, I have never been in there. I dont see why this wouldnt work with the jdm kit. There is nothing that was on the stock setup that isnt on the aftermarket setup. I mean, there are absolutely no wires whatsoever (except for the MAF). Unfortunately, I do not know where the wires or hose go.

have you looked at other gauge pods out there? I have seen ones that go in your vent, over head, pillar pods, and on the front of your ashtray. My saleen gauge does not work properly...a lot of mustang guys have had this problem also.
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  #3  
Old 04-17-2009
teamgsxr teamgsxr is offline
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If you like, I can email you the schematics for the factory set up if you'd like and where it t's in. If you want to use any other aftermarket guage, you will have to go to a vacuum guage off of the s/c.
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  #4  
Old 04-20-2009
Richard_P_Harvey Richard_P_Harvey is offline
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I really wanted to go the non-factory route because I don't like the look of the tray pod that Saleen came up with. Rather I wanted to use a Roush vent mount kit with a vacuum based gauge but I could not get that gauge to work. The only vacuum hose I could find in on the drivers side of the SC and after I t'd into that line there was zero movement of the gauge. Playing around I was able to discover that the gauge I got is a vac/boost gauge and it needs to see positive pressure to display boost. I don't think that vac line has boost just vacuum on it. Is there another hose I should be tapping into....?
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  #5  
Old 04-20-2009
teamgsxr teamgsxr is offline
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The Saleen gauge T's into the map sensor and has a barometric sensor in the cap to get the correct reading. It does NOT tie into any vacuum ports. The only other thing that I can see doing is (not cheap) to buy the saleen kit, take it apart and just use the guts of it with a different gauge mounted in a different location.
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  #6  
Old 04-20-2009
Richard_P_Harvey Richard_P_Harvey is offline
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What is the "map sensor" and where is it located...?
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  #7  
Old 04-20-2009
teamgsxr teamgsxr is offline
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I'll email you the install manual tonight when I get home and you can see the full install and location of where to tie into, including the sensors.
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  #8  
Old 04-20-2009
fast94gt fast94gt is offline
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can I get a copy of that install manual as well? I was thinking about using the Saleen gauges also.
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  #9  
Old 04-21-2009
sman113 sman113 is offline
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There is a vac line coming off of a sensor on your drivers side fuel rail that you can tie into. This is the location that JDM instructed me to install mine.
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  #10  
Old 04-22-2009
Richard_P_Harvey Richard_P_Harvey is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sman113 View Post
There is a vac line coming off of a sensor on your drivers side fuel rail that you can tie into. This is the location that JDM instructed me to install mine.
That's where Jim told me to install a vacuum gauge as well but it did not work. Here is a picture of the factory gauge pod and harness that I found on Ebay. The seller claims it will work but frankly I can't see where it would plug in under to hood. Look at the picture, see the two small white plugs on the harness, where would they go....?
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  #11  
Old 04-22-2009
Richard_P_Harvey Richard_P_Harvey is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teamgsxr View Post
I'll email you the install manual tonight when I get home and you can see the full install and location of where to tie into, including the sensors.
Please send it to "rharvey@at-com.com"

Thanks Much....
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  #12  
Old 04-23-2009
carlosc04 carlosc04 is offline
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yes I also want to know how to hook the gages up,..I've had them for a week already but can't hook them up,..I dont know how!!
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  #13  
Old 04-23-2009
Richard_P_Harvey Richard_P_Harvey is offline
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I contacted Sallen directly yesterday and guess what, someone is still there

They sent me this install manual, I am not near the truck today so I can't verify the under hood connection.

Never mind even zipped up it's too big to upload to this forum. If you want a copy drop me a PM with your email address and I will send it to you. Zipped up it's 1.9M
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  #14  
Old 04-23-2009
carlosc04 carlosc04 is offline
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for some reson I have the same problem as harvey does,...also the colors dont match,..acording to the installation teamgsxr send me,..I don't know why,..my wiring is the same as the picture shown by harvey,..hope someone can help me out...
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  #15  
Old 04-23-2009
teamgsxr teamgsxr is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard_P_Harvey View Post
That's where Jim told me to install a vacuum gauge as well but it did not work. Here is a picture of the factory gauge pod and harness that I found on Ebay. The seller claims it will work but frankly I can't see where it would plug in under to hood. Look at the picture, see the two small white plugs on the harness, where would they go....?
The two white plugs connect to the new gauges
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  #16  
Old 04-28-2009
331Dave325 331Dave325 is offline
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I had an additional question. My Temp gauge in the pod seems to be pretty erratic. Regardless of ambient temp or driving style. Sometimes it reads around the middle and other times it seems everything is running really cool. Can anyone help me out and let me know what could be causing this?
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  #17  
Old 04-28-2009
Light02atl Light02atl is offline
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The temp gauge is going to move. If its jumping back and forth, then you have a problem.

Its hard to tell if you have a defective gauge without knowing what situation you are in and without knowing what the IAT2 temp is. The best way to see if your gauge is off is to use some kind of hand held tuner and do some datalogging.

Your gauge is going to move depending on:

How fast you are going
Your fans cycling on and off
Ambient temp (yes, I know you said it doesnt matter with your gauge)
Boost pressure
Elevation
etc.
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  #18  
Old 04-28-2009
331Dave325 331Dave325 is offline
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I apologize for my original use of "erratic". What I meant to say was that it maintains a constant either really cool reading or a mid way reading. Once and a while if I happen to open the throttle up it may drop down significantly in temperature (very random though, doesn't happen every time). But seemingly not due to significant change in ambient temp. Truck is driven at, or very close to sea level in FL. It has about 3k miles on it. As for datalogging just one more reason to get that stage one kit. Is it possible there is some kind of blockage in the line?
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  #19  
Old 04-28-2009
Light02atl Light02atl is offline
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When you step on the gas, the IAT should drop in temp a little bit...depending on if you are making boost. When you start to move, air moves across your heat exchanger that sits in front of your radiator. That cools the fluid that moves through there.

Your IAT2 temp gauge (ACT gauge on your pod) will never be "constant" due to the factors I listed in my last post.
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  #20  
Old 04-28-2009
331Dave325 331Dave325 is offline
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I guess the question I should ask is what are some normal temperature readings for that, in the area we live in (South East). And what variations are considered normal. My main concern is that there was a problem with Heat exchanger or sensor.
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  #21  
Old 04-28-2009
Light02atl Light02atl is offline
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My gauge barely moves when it is below 50 degrees outside....with some boost.

Sitting in 98 degree weather, in traffic, barely moving....I stay right at about 115-120 degrees. As soon as any boost touches the sensor, the temp shoots up. In 98 degree weather, going about 65mph, I see about 105ish.

Of course, this is all what my sensor says. Lord only knows if it is accurate or not.
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  #22  
Old 04-28-2009
wcdean wcdean is offline
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Sometimes I have wondered how accurate that ACT gauge is too. If anyone is interested in upgrading their heat exchanger let me know. I had a shop in Houston customize one for my truck...

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Last edited by wcdean; 04-28-2009 at 12:48 PM.
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  #23  
Old 04-28-2009
331Dave325 331Dave325 is offline
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Thanks for the help.

What temps are you seeing with your custom heat exchanger? Big improvement over stock?
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  #24  
Old 04-28-2009
Light02atl Light02atl is offline
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Dean,

what was the cost of the custom heat exchanger?

The killer chiller is around $550...and you can eliminate your heat exchanger.
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  #25  
Old 04-28-2009
wcdean wcdean is offline
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I would have to go pull the full rape report to see an exact figure but if I remember correctly somewhere in the same ball park...

The prices I have seen for the KC system were more like $700 or so though. With install lord knows how much the bill would have been then between that, the exhaust, the blower check, the plug replacement, the JDM kit, and the dyno tuning...

But thanks for thinkin' of me "Mr. Monday morning quarterback."


Dave I have only had it on for about two weeks and we have been seeing pretty cool temps around here due to all the rain we have been getting. The real test will be this summer but I can keep you posted.
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  #26  
Old 04-29-2009
Light02atl Light02atl is offline
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WCDEAN,

You just have to know where to look. The KC lists for $650, but if you order one from some other sites where the guy is a sponsor, they are $550-$600. I dont usually take the price of an install into account since I do all of my own stuff. The KC is all plug and play though....less having your refridgerant recharged. He guarantees a 50 degree drop in IAT2 temps.

It is really an amazing product. People actually get rid of their stock heat exchanger and it makes the KC run even cooler. The only drawbacks: when the AC is on, it runs about 5 degrees hotter in the cab than it would without the KC. And, with AC drag, you lose about 5hp. But, when running a 50 degree cooler intake charge temp...you more than make up for that 5hp.

I am, however, anxious to see how your new HE performs. You should post the pics of your new exhaust here too!!!
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  #27  
Old 04-29-2009
wcdean wcdean is offline
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I will try and get it up later on but I am about to start class right now. Everyday I get in that thing and start it I think about how much I LOOOOOVE the way it sounds now; so much more aggressive.
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  #28  
Old 05-01-2009
Light02atl Light02atl is offline
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IAC/IAT2 temp point of reference according to stock gauge:

Yesterday 85-87 degrees ambient temp...sunny. Bumper to bumper traffic. 0-30mph for 15 miles, my IAC gauge was at 112-115ish. IF I even TOUCHED getting into boost, it would shoot up to 125+/- degrees. It would then cool off after I got out of boost.

After 30-35 min of driving the way I just stated, I traveled at 65mph at the same outside temp for 5-10 min. The gauge only cooled down to a little below 110 degrees the entire time. If I did get into boost, it would still heat up, but cool off much more quickly.
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