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2005-2009 Saleen Mustang For all S281, S302, H281 and H302 models based on the Ford S-197 Mustang platform, with the exception of the S302 PJ (see below). Be sure to specify year, model and equipment if asking for help.

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  #1  
Old 08-11-2015
FlashRobert FlashRobert is offline
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Angry Help: Saleen VI Supercharger noise - 2007 S281 SC

To all you Salween supercharger experts out there .... I gave the car a good hard ride on Monday .... 2007 s281sc ....And now I'm getting a new high pitched whine from the supercharger ... When I accelerate a bit it spools up and then takes a while to wind back down again .... Some might say this is a good thing and desirable in a supercharger but it is a new noise so I am worried ... Previously was quiet and didn't seem to take so long to wind down.... Anyone with any ideas ??? Sound bite on

Hopefully this will work .... you can listen here

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Old 08-11-2015
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I cannot say off hand if it matches the sound when my serpentine pulley went. You might try the wood rod or long screwdriver trick against parts like the blower housing, the pulley housing to see if either reveals that part as the offender. There is also belt noise you might diagnose with a squirt of lube or belt dressing to see if the noise subsides. Good luck with getting a trained ear on it or a quick diagnosis. I'll be redundant stating that if it is the blower you want to avoid floating bits into the intake.
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Old 08-11-2015
seethrough seethrough is offline
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Have you checked your supercharger oil level?
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  #4  
Old 08-18-2015
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that just happened to me too! same noise. I'm hoping it's jus the belt. mine has 27000km on the belt...I was told it's due for a new one.
figures this happened on my way to Woodward Dream-cruise this past weekend.
I have a smaller pulley I've been meaning to put on the past 2 years with a smaller belt so now I guess it's time for me to put it on finally.
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Old 08-18-2015
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My belt is at 60k and is only now starting to Fray a little, so I would not think that was it... Anyway... it turned out to be the bearing in the plastic idler pulley (behind the alternator in mine) .... the noise went from what you can hear in the video to a high pitched whizzing noise under load ... quite loud in the cabin too (with the windows up) and strangely (haha) it sounded kind-of plasticy too (hard to explain)

End result, idler pulley replace with a steel one... all good now and quieter than before (must have been going out for a while)

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Old 08-18-2015
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okay great! thanks for letting me know! good to know! I'll check mine too.


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  #7  
Old 08-18-2015
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mine has the same noise too....


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Old 08-19-2015
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what side is the plastic idler pulley? and where to you buy the replacement?


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Old 08-19-2015
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Drivers side. Any auto parts store should have the plastic one or you can upgrade to a billet set but they're kinda pricey. Steeda.ca has them.
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Old 08-22-2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbar View Post
Drivers side. Any auto parts store should have the plastic one or you can upgrade to a billet set but they're kinda pricey. Steeda.ca has them.
sorry,,,I meant to say what size? not what side....lol...
is it the 76mm?
this one?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/171432974282
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  #11  
Old 08-22-2015
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The 3 inch. metal pulley that you take off to put Mosaleen Grip Plate system on is what you use to replace this cheap plastic pulley that has gone bad in just 9 K miles even. Mine had 19 K on it when it went out.
The idler pulley is just to the left of S/C pulley a little below. This plastic one is under alt. and to the right of the crank pulley.

If you want to stop belt slip and gain the hp/tq you have lost from the belt stretching out plus initial belt slip look at www.mosaleen.com
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  #12  
Old 08-22-2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mosaleen View Post
The 3 inch. metal pulley that you take off to put Mosaleen Grip Plate system on is what you use to replace this cheap plastic pulley that has gone bad in just 9 K miles even. Mine had 19 K on it when it went out.
The idler pulley is just to the left of S/C pulley a little below. This plastic one is under alt. and to the right of the crank pulley.

If you want to stop belt slip and gain the hp/tq you have lost from the belt stretching out plus initial belt slip look at www.mosaleen.com
thanks Scott! I finally have a real excuse to finally install your Mosaleen kit now. I guess this should solve my noise problem, and finally get more boost!
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  #13  
Old 08-24-2015
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Before reading the comments it sounded like either a bad bearing in a pulley or your alternator. I had a similar sound with mine and put a stethoscope on it to find out it was my alternator. Anyhow, glad yours wasn't an alternator.
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  #14  
Old 08-24-2015
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hmmm...I'll check my alternator too...thanks for you comments XxBoostinxX


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  #15  
Old 08-25-2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saleen12c View Post
hmmm...I'll check my alternator too...thanks for you comments XxBoostinxX


Saleen12c: 2008 S281 S/C Convertible

Anytime bud. Good luck. 👍
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  #16  
Old 08-28-2015
jrcalvin jrcalvin is offline
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Default alternator idler pulley

I have a Saleen SC PJ and a steel idler pulley behind the alternator. Here is a pic of what happens to the steel pulley when the idler pulley bearing seized. The serpentine belt eventually boke but not until after some serious friction on the pulley.

And no, that is NOT just belt material on the pulley...that is deformed steel, not aluminum, not plastic.
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  #17  
Old 08-28-2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrcalvin View Post
I have a Saleen SC PJ and a steel idler pulley behind the alternator. Here is a pic of what happens to the steel pulley when the idler pulley bearing seized. The serpentine belt eventually boke but not until after some serious friction on the pulley.

And no, that is NOT just belt material on the pulley...that is deformed steel, not aluminum, not plastic.

I have seen this before on other cars and it happened to me as well. Ended up gouging my front timing chain cover enough that I needed to replace the whole cover. Lot of stress on that pulley. Best idea is to bite the bullet and go straight to a billet aluminum pulley.
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  #18  
Old 08-28-2015
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How many miles were on your car's when this happened? If you don't mind me asking.
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  #19  
Old 08-28-2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 07S281SC111 View Post
How many miles were on your car's when this happened? If you don't mind me asking.

Around 15k on my car. I have a 10% overdrive crank pulley and spin it to 7000 rpms so that doesn't help matters.
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Old 08-28-2015
jrcalvin jrcalvin is offline
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Default Pulley failure

I have about 13,000 on my 2007 PJ. Whether, the pulley is plastic, aluminum billet or steel, it still comes down to the longevity/quality of the sealed pulley bearing. My SC motor rarely sees anything over 6,000 rpm. I just chalked it up to an earlier than usual bearing failure.

I am not going replace all the pulleys as preventative maintenance at this time. Actually, I had all the tools and spare serpentine belt in my PJ to fix the serpentine belt problem when it occurred but did not have a spare pulley.
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Old 08-28-2015
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In my case the bearing turned fine even after the idler came apart. I think it was due to the way those stock idlers are made that makes them break the way they do. With a billet pulley it has support right under the belt which allows direct compressive load applied through the pulley vs a bending force like on the standard Ford idlers.
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Old 08-28-2015
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Check out an example of the stress that's put on these tensioners and idlers. Pretty dramatic.

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  #23  
Old 08-30-2015
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First I have seen metal idler go that bad. You may need to get ohst has double roller bearings...
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Mosaleen S/C no slip idler system
3:73 gears, Watts link Gen II
14" front brakes, slotted rear rotors
Brenspeed 302, 47lb inj, longtubes/ catted H-pipe 570 rwhp 545 rwtq (SAE) 13.5 lbs boost, Afco heat exchanger
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  #24  
Old 08-30-2015
jrcalvin jrcalvin is offline
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Default pulley damaged

I have your Mosaleen pulley wrap setup but what is...."ohst"? A brand a type of double bearing pulley or what?
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  #25  
Old 08-30-2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mosaleen View Post
First I have seen metal idler go that bad. You may need to get ohst has double roller bearings...

It happens more than you think. This is the third time I have seen this exact failure mode this year.
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  #26  
Old 08-31-2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrcalvin View Post
I have about 13,000 on my 2007 PJ. Whether, the pulley is plastic, aluminum billet or steel, it still comes down to the longevity/quality of the sealed pulley bearing. My SC motor rarely sees anything over 6,000 rpm. I just chalked it up to an earlier than usual bearing failure.

I am not going replace all the pulleys as preventative maintenance at this time. Actually, I had all the tools and spare serpentine belt in my PJ to fix the serpentine belt problem when it occurred but did not have a spare pulley.
Hey John, your right it does matter about the quality of the bearing. We recommend Timken whenever/wherever possible. However, the balance of the pulley has A LOT to do with the bearing lifespan. If the pulley isnt balanced precisely, the bearing will prematurely fail. This is why we strive to get people to ditch the plastic (horrible) and steel pulleys. The billet ones are balanced and to date, we've never replaced a bearing on a billet pulley. Lastly, the entire serpentine pulley system has to be in good shape. Anything providing an imbalance will cause everything else to fail including the noise drive assembly bearings in the snout of the supercharger.

Hope that helps.
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  #27  
Old 11-09-2016
06Extreme26 06Extreme26 is offline
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Jason,

I know you sell some of these so what are good choices for double roller bearing billet tensioner and idler pulleys? Also I know you've discussed this before somewhere but where is the supercharger oil fill hole again? I see a brass cap on the passenger side of the supercharger that looks like a crossover. Is this it? I have the alternator off and still don't see anything behind it like some have said. Could be evening blindness... LOL
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  #28  
Old 11-09-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 06Extreme26 View Post
Jason,

I know you sell some of these so what are good choices for double roller bearing billet tensioner and idler pulleys? Also I know you've discussed this before somewhere but where is the supercharger oil fill hole again? I see a brass cap on the passenger side of the supercharger that looks like a crossover. Is this it? I have the alternator off and still don't see anything behind it like some have said. Could be evening blindness... LOL
Give me a call at the shop, I'm not sure exactly what your referring too.
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  #29  
Old 08-19-2020
Dennis lufrano Dennis lufrano is offline
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Default Supercharger noise

Yep the noise, the sound of money being sucked from your wallet. I had the noise, sounded like a slurpee machine. Then came the drip from the center of upper pully. Then came $3,333.23 and a total supercharger top notch rebuild. Car has 37k on it, was told eventually you'll need to go through the supercharger. I did not know that. Alot to learn compadres.
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  #30  
Old 08-20-2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis lufrano View Post
Yep the noise, the sound of money being sucked from your wallet. I had the noise, sounded like a slurpee machine. Then came the drip from the center of upper pully. Then came $3,333.23 and a total supercharger top notch rebuild. Car has 37k on it, was told eventually you'll need to go through the supercharger. I did not know that. Alot to learn compadres.
Any chance you went to RDW Auto?

We have tried endlessly to let people know its 4 years or 40k miles these need to be serviced. The time is way more critical than the distance. We see these damaged every day because they dont get serviced on time.
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